Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Back To Joburg

Safari was amazing. We saw all of the Big Five, eventually spotting a leopard on our last night safari. The food couldn't have been better - I haven't been hungry in four days. The company was wonderful, we met a Swedish couple who live in Cape Town that we will meet up with in a few days. Most importantly, I had an amazing time hanging out with Liz as her birthday approaches. For our final dinner at the lodge, the staff set us up in the wine cellar and we had a very romantic dinner just the two of us. It's a shame that Merv and Shirley couldn't join us but they had a romantic dinner of their own in their room. They are an adorable older couple from Pretoria.

I can't believe it's already December. Time is flying. We came back to Johannesburg early this afternoon and are staying at a really beautiful hotel. We got a taxi from the airport and the driver ended up being our tour guide for the day. He took us to Soweto, the Apartheid Museum and Nelson Mandela's house. The city is different and beautiful in it's own way. I'm pretty tired from our schedule the last couple of days but we're powering through. South Africa, and Johannesburg in particular, has a very unique history. I actually took a class on South African history in college but sadly I don't remember much. I am picking up bits and pieces from people that we interact with.

Democracy is a fairly new concept here. Nelson Mandela was released from Robben Island only a little more than 20 years ago. This city went through a monumental change in a short amount of time. From the Apartheid government to democracy in a few years. Soweto was the scene of a grisly confrontation between school children and police that left 29 young people dead in 1976. There are deep seeded racial issues here. Everyone that we've talked to discusses them. I find it fascinating. America was there 50 years ago. Things don't change overnight. There's a rich culture here and the people are incredibly friendly. That being said.....I can't wait to get to Cape Town!!


Liz and I have some great stuff planned for the next few days and thanks to our friends on safari we have about 10 more restaurants to visit and places to go. I can't wait to have a drink on the beach with my shoes off and my feet in the sand. The thought alone puts a smile on my face. We are diving with great white sharks in a couple of days, we have a wine tour planned in Franschhoek and then tons of time to kill doing whatever we want.

A few more pictures from the last few days:

Cape Buffalo skull 
Hyena















Playing Scrabble 




There's a storm coming
Pretty bird









The Lodge 

Sunday, December 9, 2012

First Day of Safari

Yesterday was unbelievable. Liz and I got to Johannesburg on Friday afternoon. We stayed at a nice hotel that literally had everything you could ever imagine: casino, theater, movie theater, 10 restaurants, bars; you name it they had it. Of course for our eating pleasure we chose Hooters.....I haven't had chicken wings in too long....

The following morning we left for safari. When we stepped off of the plane it was really hot and humid. This is weather that we are now completely unaccustomed to. I haven't stopped sweating for about 24 hours. It makes me not miss the weather in DC at all. That being said, we had a fantastic lunch and hung out by the pool and lounged around in the sun for a couple of hours before going out on our first ride.

When we did leave the lodge the weather was much more beautiful. The sun started to set about an hour into our ride. It was warm but the breeze in the jeep was great. We saw some small animals like Impala, that were ok, but nothing spectacular. Then out of nowhere CRUNCH!! Liz spotted a baby elephant tearing apart a big bush. We cruised over right next to it. It was a young male and as soon as we pulled up it faced us and flared it's ears. Thank you for the photo op young elephant. We ended up seeing a mother, a one month old baby and two young males with her. As we continued to drive we came upon a pack of about 25-30 elephants....a tide if you will.....all walking together through the woods. It was unreal. There were babies, huge males and females and young ones too. It was a sight:








 Next we stopped to enjoy the sunset, which was surreal. We planned this trip a while ago and it was so nice to finally be here. It was so much better sharing this experience with Liz. We had a drink as the sun went down. The colors were magnificent. I don't drink gin and tonics but I had one then; it seemed appropriate.



With an hour left in our first safari ride we happened upon a pride of 20 lions. There was one full grown male with a beautiful mane and one young male. All the rest were females. It was now dusk and the pride was walking in single file beginning their hunt. The sky got dark very quickly.




















For about the last 2 hours of our ride you could see lightening everywhere and dark clouds. You couldn't help but notice it all around us but we were pretty preoccupied with the animals. As we followed this pride of lions around the lightening closed in. Soon it was literally encircling us and very close. Our ranger decided to head back. As soon as we started driving the skies just opened up. I honestly can't remember ever seeing a storm like that. The lightening lit up the darkness like daytime. The rain slashed faces as we drove back to the lodge. We were about an hour away. They had ponchos in the jeep so we put them on but Liz and I were already soaked. We are in a group with two older couples. Liz and I kept our hoods down and just got drenched. As we were tearing down these dirt roads Liz and I were cackling and howling in the back of the jeep like a couple of seven year olds. I haven't laughed that hard in months. It was that wonderful childish laughter that you just can't stop. We were crying laughing at the ridiculousness of the situation all the way back to the lodge. Upon our return we showered up and had an amazing dinner with a good group of new friends. We are the only Americans at this particular lodge and it is interesting hearing everyone's backgrounds.

What was your Saturday like......?

Couldn't be happier to be taking a break from work and getting ready to celebrate Elizabeth's birthday on the 14th!!

Saturday, December 1, 2012

A Big Success!


Today was a huge day for Elizabeth and I. This is the first day that we implemented a program that we can completely call our own. I think it was a success. Honestly, it wasn’t too difficult and speaks volumes of the students here. But I digress……let’s talk about the Eye for Zion mission first.

Elizabeth and I had the privilege of spending some time with the Eye for Zion mission that is here this week. These are Israeli specialists in Ophthalmology - some specialize in cataracts, some specialize in glaucoma and one doctor specializes in plastics. All of them were captivating. This is the third year (for some) and fourth year (for some) coming to Gondar. The mission has been a huge success. JDC got involved and helped give them direction, They are not only conducting eye surgeries, but they are educating the Ophthalmologists in Gondar on new techniques and perfecting existing ones. They bring so much experience it’s really amazing.

We got to volunteer one day and help out at the Ophthalmology Clinic in Gondar with the doctors. They gave us scrubs and they let us assist with medial tasks in the operating room. I am really squeamish when it comes to surgery, blood, broken legs, etc., but this was awesome. The attention to detail was amazing. They were literally sticking these tiny utensils into peoples’ eyes and giving them sight again; come into the OR blind, come out with sight. Absolutely incredible and life changing. We took tons of pictures and the doctors liked having us there. The power went out in the clinic right before they began with the surgeries for the day……welcome to Ethiopia my friends.

Us in our scrubs
I should be paying attention to surgery










Liz with Dr. Assia

Close up.....gross I know......


Now to our success. In Ethiopia, classes aren’t separated by ability. In school the classes are separated by age and what grade the student attended last. Hence the reason why we have some students pushing 30 in ninth grade; they went to eighth grade, stopped going, and came back some years later as a ninth grade students. Some students don’t know the English alphabet. Some can’t read or write. Some are fully conversational and really bright. The one thing that all of these students have in common is their capacity to learn; some just choose not to.

About a month ago Liz and I started discussing an English Club. They have clubs at Fasiledes and plenty of them. When I asked one of our professors why there wasn’t an English club he replied because the students don’t care enough. No one would come. Wow, that couldn’t be further from the truth. Two weeks ago I asked two of our best students to meet me during break. They came as instructed. We sat down and I told them that we wanted to start an English Club. The difficult part was that I had no idea what I was doing. I told them that I didn’t know how to get the students together, how to organize it, when to meet etc. One of the two students calmly said, “This is how we’re going to do it” and rattled off instructions to me for a few minutes. I was completely blown away. These kids are really smart. He told me to take two students from each class, one boy one girl, We’d meet on Saturdays so everyone was free. Give me a list by next Monday, he said, with all of the students you want and me and my friend here will get them together and tell them what to do. I just stared at them in shock and said ok.

A week later I had a list, I secured the room at school and we had a time to meet – 12pm Western time on Saturday (TODAY). So we prepared a lesson plan. We want these students to learn to think critically, to formulate and voice their opinion articulately, to think outside of the box and be confident. We turned to poetry for this first meeting. I printed out a poem by an Ethiopian poet. It was simple and good.

To me, the material was important but it wasn’t the most important thing. I thought that no one would show. I was wrong. We got to school and ended up having twelve students, not my entire list but a great start. I asked the students how often they wanted to meet expecting they’d say once a month if ever; they said every Saturday. This means something to them. In order to get teachers to teach them in their free time the students have to pay. I learned this last weekend and it made me sick. They can have our time for free and we will be there as long as they need us to be.

While we’re here, Elizabeth and I plan on doing this every Saturday. I encouraged the students to tell their friends – from other schools, from their kebele, their family members. Hopefully this thing will catch on and grow so that we can start teaching for a few hours on Saturday.

I’ve never attempted anything like this in my entire life. I was a little nervous that no one would show and I was proven wrong. I thought they were there because I told them I’d give them some poetry. Turns out they liked the poetry but wanted to do other things as well. I am constantly amazed by the people here; sometimes good sometimes bad. I will say that some of the lows are pretty low (teachers making the students pay them to come on the weekend for an hour when the students themselves are incredibly poor), but the highs completely restore my faith. These students are smart, driven and willing to give up their free time to be in a classroom. I couldn’t have said the same thing for myself when I was 15. I am happy to be here and proud to be a teacher. It feels good to have the students reciprocate our efforts. They want to be there as much as we do and that makes all of this worthwhile. 

Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Local "Beer"


Yesterday we visited several well projects north of Gondar. Azaikow Village #1 is incredibly beautiful and there’s one family there that is very kind to us. The last time we visited they gave us fresh corn and cheese. Yesterday, they gave us local “beer” called tella, which people that live in the countryside typically drink. I put beer in quotation marks because this was so far from any beer I’ve ever had in my life. I like beer. I don’t particularly like Ethiopian beer but while I’m here it’ll do. My experience yesterday made me thank god for Ethiopian beer. I tried both the distilled beer and one that hadn’t been distilled yet. Oh boy…………

The one that hadn’t been distilled looked like a vegetable (leaves and grass in particular) smoothie. The wonderful mother asked me to let it sit for 20 minutes so that the sediment could make it’s way to the bottom……think about that….. It was so rough. I honestly would never drink a day in my life if that were my only option.

Next was the distilled beer. They distill it for about a week and then it’s ready to go. This one was a golden green color. No carbonation. Less sediment. Tasted NOTHING like any beer I’ve ever had, but it was better than the first. Ethiopians are incredibly generous, so they kept refilling my glass until I literally had to leave.

Never thought I'd say this but thank god for Ethiopian beer!!!

Look at the color of this "beer" I'm holding........

At Azaikow Village #1 enjoying local "beer'

Monday, November 19, 2012

Young Professionals Group and Jodi's Visit


I can’t believe that it’s been two weeks since my last post. Time is really flying. School is great. The students are coming along. What’s amazing is that the best students are not only distinguishing themselves through in-class exercises and homework, but they are also helping the other students.

The workings of our English Club are underway. We decided to take two students from each class, one male and one female and are planning on using a room at Fasiledes on Saturdays to hold an hour-long session. We have to clear the weekend use of a classroom with the principal but I am hopeful he will encourage us. We will use poetry to spark critical thinking with the students. Hopefully, students develop and speak their opinions. We hope that they will also form a bond with each other that will last as they progress in school. Lastly, we are going to teach some leadership. It is important that the students help each other inside and outside of class. A leadership role isn’t always obvious. It helps to point it out to people, especially some that are so young.

A couple of weeks ago we had a JDC Young Professionals trip come to town. These were some really amazing people. All of them engaging and interesting. All of them fun. Liz and I had a blast spending a few days with them. I feel that they really got a taste of what we do here. The group painted at Chilo Primary School (rural school outside of Gondar), we dewormed families at the JDC Clinic, we dewormed students at Tantikura Elementary School, they helped with construction at another school and we visited Ambober and some well projects. It was a marathon couple of days but they all had a ton of fun. Words can’t describe a lot of what we do; you’ve got to see it. They actually got to see a lot of it. The young people that came are inspiring. These are people that will remain active and interested and hopefully promote change.

Deworming Meds at JDC Clinic

It's Movember

New Classroom at Chilo


Chilo Primary School after the Young Professionals got done with it
The weekend before last we visited Awra Amba with a group of friends. Awra Amba is an egalitarian village about 3 hours outside of Gondar. It was unique; something that's never been done in Ethiopia. I wouldn’t really call the village egalitarian but it was close. We took a tour, read a lot and just hung out and enjoyed each other’s company. One thing that scared me was that they put all of their elderly inside a ward. The interior is made of cold, grey stone and there was no energy. It made me think about getting older. I know my family well and I have confidence that they would never put me in an elderly home. The one at Awra Amba scared me. If I do go to an elderly home, it better have a basketball court and ping pong table….or you’ll have to drag me there. They described the elderly as babies, which I couldn’t disagree with more. 

Liz’s mom, Jodi, was here with us the last few days. She spent time in Gondar and Addis Ababa. We had a lot of fun. She is really an amazing woman. It was great to have her here but really tough to see her leave. While I’m so far away, it’s good to detach myself from home. It helps me focus on being here and what I’m doing. That being said I am very happy that Jodi was here and makes me look forward to when my family comes to visit…….if that ever happens……

I really enjoy it here. Our free time is relaxing and we are actively working. The students are the best. They just opened a new school building at Fasiledes with four new classrooms. They moved the students out of the dilapidated rooms and into the new building. It’s amazing, there are currently three new buildings under construction at Fasiledes. I’m looking forward to seeing what this school looks like by the time we leave. There's so much change taking place in my work and personal life. It's really an exciting time. 
Happy Students at Chilo














Tuesday, October 30, 2012

National Flag Day - Interesting Day At Fasiledes


It’s a little after 6am on Tuesday morning. It’s absolutely pouring outside. When I woke up I thought that our water tank on the roof was overflowing as it does occasionally. This sound is different. I walked out onto the porch and there was that river flowing through our street again. I haven’t seen it in weeks. The one thing that the countryside could definitely use is a big storm. Hopefully it will make the fading green of the hills more vibrant for a few more days.

Yesterday was a very interesting day at school. When we arrived the flag ceremony, which is the flag raising that we do every morning, was still going on. This typically ends right before first period begins. We were teaching second period and the flag ceremony went on. I found out quickly from one of the teachers that it was National Flag Day in Ethiopia The students and teachers alike were celebrating the Ethiopian flag, a day that’s been recognized by the government for five years now.



Morning Flag Ceremony at Fasiledes. This is only about half of the students at the ceremony

The flag itself is beautiful. From top to bottom it has a stripe of green, a stripe of gold and a stripe of red.  I was told that the green stands for fertility and hope. The gold stands for peace, purity and religion. The red stands for blood (certification) and heroism. There is a beautiful star in the middle of the flag, but I am working on the meaning of that. Everything in Ethiopia has a story, from people's names to the flag. I really enjoy learning about the history here.

When I got to my first class there were only 10 students in the classroom. I was shocked, I just saw the largest flag ceremony of the year and to my knowledge all of the students from the morning session were there. My students told me that most of the students went home after the flag ceremony. It didn’t make sense to me – walk an hour or more to school to be there for an hour and then walk an hour or more home. What it did show me was a small number of students that really wanted to be there. To be honest it was disheartening. No one brought his or her books. I decided that we would all sit around and talk about the history of the flag. The students were eager to learn about the American flag and I was eager to tell them. One student knew what the American flag looked like and he drew it on the board. I thought more students would know that. They asked to hear the national anthem, so I sang it …..they all laughed at me. I asked one of the students to sing the Ethiopian national anthem, he did and we all had some fun with that as well. My entire morning went like this. No students and no books.

It started to get loud outside of the classroom. When I looked outside none of the students were in class. It turned out that a lot of the teachers left school also. This really blew me away. When students could hear us talking in our classroom groups of them walked down and asked if they could come in and join. I was glad to have them all.  During my last morning section, a group of students walked into class and asked if they could learn with us. I asked them to please take a seat. Unfortunately the bell sounded right when they sat down and most of the students were eager to go. The group that just came in was bummed. One student, whom I particularly like, asked “why can’t we learn with you today?” Because class is over, I responded. He was genuinely unhappy. If I needed validation for our progress I got it then. The students enjoy our class. They like having us at school. It made me feel good to know that we are having such a positive impact on so many young people.

In another class I asked one student if the others use the library. He said he did whenever he could. When I prodded about other students and why they didn’t utilize all the great books and materials at school his answer was simple: “because most of them don’t care.” His answer was direct and true; it really broke my heart.

Barely any of the students did the homework assignment this week. And when I say barely any I mean maybe one per class. We asked the students to write a letter to us as if we were already back in D.C. We asked them to write about anything – futbol, school, their family, Gondar, America…..anything. Most students didn’t take the time to do it, but those that did wrote beautifully. It hasn’t been difficult for Elizabeth and I to find the brightest and most eager students. They are easy to weed out from those that couldn’t care less about being there and constantly disrupt class. I had to ask two students to leave class last Thursday because their constant interruptions and disrespect for their classmates were unbearable. In some way, we would like to set up a program and get the brightest students together. I bought some children’s books in Addis that I think would be great reading. It’s of utmost importance for the brightest students to help those of lower skill levels. We see it naturally in some classes. Others need to be pushed a bit to notice and accept their leadership roll. If we could get these students together, realize a common goal and really decide with them to make a difference I think something great could happen here.

Lastly, I’d like to share an enlightening conversation that I had with another teacher This will give you insight into some teachers and their hardships with finding employment. This teacher teaches a class in Information Computer Technology (ICT). This fascinates me because the school has a computer lab but the administration doesn’t allow the students to use it – the library operates much the same. So the teacher tries to teach the history of computers, their practical use and theory. To me, it seems impossible to learn how to use a computer without putting my hands on one. He explained the difficulties in teaching the history of computers because he has no idea how the original computers worked. I told him neither did I. He graduated from University in 1989 with the first class of ICT graduates.

I asked him if he’d ever thought about working elsewhere. He said of course but jobs were close to impossible to find in Gondar. Most of the good jobs are in Addis and even then they are still almost impossible to find. Why, I inquired. He said he would love to work with the government or an NGO but his GPA at University was too low and he doesn’t have enough experience. This is a common theme among teachers here. A lot of them have a degree in another field, but their GPA hinders them from getting a job in said field. Think about this – the college graduates with the lowest GPAs become teachers because they don’t have a choice. To me, this is counterintuitive. A system is developed where people become teachers out of necessity and you find that their academic background puts them in a position of desperation. I would hope that some of the brightest students would become teachers but this isn’t the case. Most graduates need a profession that makes money and being a teacher isn’t one of them. This country has plenty of issues that need help. Hell, so does America. One of the issues that needs more attention is the education system. This particular teacher didn’t want to teach. He’s been teaching now for five years and counting and is still unable to get another job. He explained that companies are now taking fresh college grads with good experience and good GPAs. Companies and NGOs post their vacancies and job openings online, but no one here has Internet. There is a board in Piazza where announcements are posted. He explained that when a good job is posted, he is at school teaching. By the time he gets a break to go check the board someone has taken down the posting so that no one else will have the opportunity to apply. This was particularly troubling. How do you escape this predicament? I didn’t have the answer to that and we sat in silence for a few minutes before I went to class.

In Gondar, we learn something new every single day. Something eye-opening. Something confusing. Something shocking. Something terrible. Always something new. It makes me cherish the life that we lead and the freedom that we have in America. It also makes the wheels start turning in my head. I can’t say it enough but there’s so much to do here. What’s sad is that most Ethiopians here won’t take it upon themselves to make these changes. How long before you are just fed up with the way things are? It doesn’t take long for me. You can’t go through life relying on other people to change things. It has to start with you. You have to want to make a difference. Having an idea is being 50% there. Making that idea come to fruition isn’t even the difficult part; all that takes is effort and hard work. The tough part is making something sustainable, so that when you are gone people here will continue to maintain and grow what you’ve started. That, my friends, is the challenge.

I know the hurricane is pounding the East Coast right now. It’s ironic, we have a small tropical storm of our own going on here. The similarities are few and far between but they’re there….sometimes. I hope everyone is safe with plenty of water. I wish everyone well.

A SPECIAL HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO MY MOTHER! I LOVE YOU TREMENDOUSLY MOM! HAVE A SPECIAL DAY! YOU’RE IN MY THOUGHTS ALWAYS!

Pictures from Class: